When I woke up, I turned over and looked at my clock and it a dit it was 6 am. I couldn't believe i woke up at six! I decided to get out of bed, I went over to my computer and checked the surf as I usually did. I saw that the waves are going to be great so I put on my bathingsuit and sweat pants and then a sweat chemise on. I grabbed my wetsuit out of the colset and went downstairs and ate breakfast. Alice was in the cuisine when I walked down.
salut Addi, Whatcha doing up this early? she ask.
Oh, just the usual surfing all day. I told her.
I ate and then left for the garage got my bike and board and headed out. Once I got to the plage the waves were amazing. I went and layed my bag and towel suivant to the lifeguard tower and then I put my wetsuit on and headed out. I surfed for what seemed like a minute but it was really lunch time-ish because the sun was right above me. I was getting hungry and tired and the waves seemed to be getting bigger and bigger. I saw the most perfect wave and I started paddling and then it lifted me up and i was about to dropp into it right when my nose of the board went under water in other words it pearled. I fell off and got punded par the wave when it broke on me. The wave pushed me into a rock under water and my shoulder nailed into the rock so hard it almost knocked the breathe out of me and it tore my wetsuit open. Not only was my wetsuit tore but my board was also borken. I popped up and saw a wave about to brake on haut, retour au début of me so I suck in a big breathe and went under water. I popped up again and notice that the lifeguard on rive was looking my way, and before I knew it I was pushed under par another wave. I tried swimming under the wave as it broke and it work somewhat that is. When I came up I wasn't in the breaking zone anymore which was great and then I noticed a helicoper above me and someone coming down from it. When they got down they yelled:
I'm with the United Stated Coast Guard, I'm here to help you. He said.
He put out his hand and I took it. He hooked me up into a harnais and then the helicopter started lifting us up. We were almost to the haut, retour au début and in the door of the helicopter and then the lifty thing just jerked us to a stop and then my harnais broke and I almost fell out until the guy that had went to get me in the water caught me par my hand. I was hanging in the sky par his hand holding me up. He took of his mask and I saw his face it was Max!
Help.. I yelled to him
I wont let go, I promise. Max told me tightening his grip on my hand.
I was scared to death, I didn't know what to do.My shoulder was hurting from hanging and then I thought about Max's shoulder had to hurt plus than mine because he was supporting all of my weight. We hung there for what seemed like forever and soon I saw the ground beneath us and a bunch of people too. The helicopter stopped right before we hit the ground. Then when all the people caught me right as Max let go. I didn't know who they were but they carried me to the ambulance and then I ask about Max.
Is Max okay? I ask to the guy carring me.
I don't know but I'll tell ya once I know. He said.
I held my arm/shoulder it hurt so bad. Max ended up getting into the helicopter with me.
Max. I a dit going for a hug.
toi okay? He ask.
Yeah i'm fine, you? I ask.
I don't know it hurts like crap. He told me.