"In the forest toi must first use your ears, then your eyes," says Harris McDonald, my rainforest guide here on the tiny Caribbean island of Tobago. He silences me with a finger to his mouth. "Listen." I do, and then I hear it: a loud, yawning groan like something straight out of Jurassic Park. I back up a step and stumble over the gnarled roots of the mule path we've been following for the past hour.
McDonald follows that with a smile roughly the same size as the machete at his side. He's known as the "Jungle Man," and he's been leading casual jour hikers and tourists into Tobago's rainforestthe...
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